tips and tricks
Ollies
Surface Spins
Wakeslides
Wake Jumps
Getting High
Double Up
Blind 180
Tantrum and Backroll
Whirly Bird
Inside Out 180's
Ollies
Ollies are a huge part of wakeboarding that are used more often than probably any other trick. They are used to transfer back to a stance after a landing. They are used on sliders and rails. And sometimes even over birds or other marine life.
The easiest way to learn ollies is with a little speed and tension, but not from the boat, you’re going to create your own.
Have the boat run your normal speed, anywhere from 20 – 24 should be perfect. Start on the outside of the wake with your toes closest to the wake. Set a hard Heelside edge away from the wake trying to generate as much speed as possible. This will make the water more firm under you’re board thus making it easier to release from. When your reaching the pinnacle of your cut you should be in a slightly crouched position. From this position you want to stand up hard on your back foot. As if you where making the board do a wheelie. As you ‘re back leg gets close to full extension pull your front foot up and then hop off your back foot to bring the entire board off the water.
Do yourself a favor and as soon as you learn this regular, try it switch. I see too many people that can land switch well but can’t get back around once they do. Learning to Ollie switch and regular will help big time in the long run if you get it out of the way now.
Another great way to practice is over buoys like in a slalom course or even small mooring buoy’s. Just be careful with your legal limits you can stay from shoreline on your lake.
Once you have them down try to add a 180 to your Ollie. Just follow the same guidelines as the Surface 180 as far as rotating with your hip as apposed to your board/feet.
Have fun,
Dave Briscoe
www.thewakeboardcoach.com
Surface Spins
Surface spins are a huge part of learning proper technique on board control as well as learning how to pass a handle properly.
One of the first accomplishments most of my students have within the first day of me working with them is Surface Spins. They teach all kinds of important basics of Wakeboarding.
- Balance- It’s so important that you learn from the beginning the dynamics of standing on water if you’ve never done that before. Surface Spins will give you way more balance understanding than just riding alone.
- Stability- Once your stable with either foot forward you’ll open many more doors on the board.
- Proper weight distribution- The board is designed for you to have even weight on it when you ride. The tough part is getting your brain wrapped around the idea that you don’t have to lean back.
- Control standing sideways- Board sports challenge everything we’ve ever learned since we learned to walk. Instead of everything being front and back it’s now lead by which hipbone is in front.
- Control of the handle-The handle makes Wakeboarding way more difficult than most board sports, since it takes your arms away when you seek balance. Handle placement will determine which part of your body gets pulled down the lake.
The first one you want to learn is the standard surface 180. Ride in the middle of the Wake between 12 and 15 mph. The reason for the slow speed is to eliminate some hard crashes. The slow speed will enable you to release your fins easier. Also if you do catch an edge the impact won’t be quite as devastating.
Here’s where your hips come into play. If you’re riding Left foot forward think of your left hipbone being your steering wheel. You want to point it directly to the boat in line with the V of the handle. When you’re ready to spin lower your center of gravity keeping your weight centered on the board. Turning from left to right rotate your right hipbone until it is pointing to the boat in line with the V. Ride in this (switch) position for a good 10 seconds before you try to return to your normal stance.
Once you get these down, try to add the handle pass behind the back to complete the full 360. When you pass the handle behind your back you want to keep both palms of your hands upward with your knuckles against your back.
Take it slow and let the board slide. You don’t need to rush the spin.
When trying the 3 you may have difficulty getting the handle pass try these tricks.
- Stop in the 180 and let your arms out, in a quick jerking motion pull them back in and try the handle pass all at once.
- Keep your eyes on the horizon when pulling in for the pass, when your head goes down, your spine will curve and throw off your balance.
- Pass the handle close to your back, the closer it is the less chance of falling backwards toward the boat.
Good Luck,
Dave Briscoe
www.thewakeboardcoach.com
Wake Slides
Wakeslides are a great tool to help you get the feel and balance point of your board. This is extremely important since most people tend to ride too much on their back foot when learning edge control.
It’s best to start these riding on your regular foot forward, just outside the wake. You want your toeside of the board to be closest to the wake. If your regular foot forwards this will be the port (left) side of the boat.
Start at the base of the wake, just where the wake starts it’s upward shape. Slowly ride to the top and drive your back foot toward the boat. This is definitely easier with no fins on your board so it will release easier. Also run a little slower than normal to avoid the dreaded face plant.
As the board starts to slide around try to keep your center of gravity low and centered on the board. The taller you stand the more chance of catching an edge.
Once you’ve got the board sideways, try to balance on the crest of the wake, both toes should be up and facing the back of the boat. The wakes crest should be directly between your feet.
Once you’ve got this down you can try it switch. Then give a backside boardslide a try.
Have fun and good luck.
Dave Briscoe
www.thewakeboardcoach.com
Wake Jumps
OK, Relax....The doctor is in...
Going wake to wake is one of the biggest challenges for anyone starting out on a board.
Since you’re on top of water, it's impossible to pop simply with your legs. The harder you kick your legs the more you'll sink the board into the water.
Pop or lift comes from your entire body, and mainly your hips...
The harder you cut into the wake the more tension you will put on the rope. What you need to understand is, where is that tension going? The tension gets applied to your shoulders. Therefore the harder you cut the more tension or weight your putting on your shoulders. The second place that's affected by the wake is that huge surface area that hits it under you feet... (The Board). The harder you cut the more impact and upward motion the board gets.
Now the trick is keeping this impact from the Wake hitting the board, and Impact of all that weight you've put on your shoulders, from crushing your body at take off.
Think of a scenario, Let's say you’re standing on the floor blind folded, and I came up behind you without you knowing and I jumped on your back. Where would your body crush first? Probably through your hip joint. Since that is the largest hinge on your body. But if you saw me coming you would resist through your back, hips, & knees to support the weight.
When you take off from a wake instead of trying so hard to jump off of it simply build an edge with a body ready to resist a strong impact. And all that energy of the wake will not only throw the board up. But everything on top of it. The more rigid and tall you are at the top of the wake the more height you'll get.
The second scenario I want you to think of is impacting an object through a swing. This could be anything your into. Golf. Baseball, Tennis etc. When you swing a Golf club for instance think of when the hardest part of your swing is. Usually at contact. But do you stop swinging at contact? Of course not, unless you play Golf like I do and like nature walks through the woods. My point is you must follow through to accomplish projection. The same thing goes behind the boat. After all you’re just a monkey at the end of a string back there.
Good Luck, and remember "Hesitation Leads to Pain".
Dave Briscoe
www.thewakeboardcoach.com
Getting High
OK, Relax....The doctor is in...
Since your on top of water, it's impossible to pop simply with your legs. The harder you kick your legs the more you'll sink the board into the water.
Pop come's from your entire body, and mainly your hips...
The harder you cut into the wake the more tension you will put on the rope. What you need to understand is, Where is that tension going? The tension gets applied to your shoulders. Therefore the harder you cut the more tension or weight your putting on your shoulders. The second place that's affected by the wake is that huge surface area that hits it under you feet... (The Board). The harder you cut the more impact and upward motion the board gets.
Now the trick is keeping this impact from the Wake hitting the board, and Impact of all that weight you've put on your shoulders, from crushing your body at take off.
Think of a scenario, Let's say your standing on the floor blind folded, and I came up behind you without you knowing and I jumped on your back. Where would your body crush first.....Probably through your hip joint. since that is the largest hinge on your body. But if you saw me coming you would resist through your back, hips, & knees to support the weight.
When you take off from a wake instead of trying so hard to jump off of it simply build an edge with a body ready to resist a strong impact. and all that energy of the wake will not only through the board up. but everything on top of it. The more rigid and tall you are at the top of the wake the more height you'll get.
Good Luck,
and remember "Hesitation Leads to Pain".
Double Up
DoubleUp's are only about 8 years old in the sport of Wakeboarding that we know today. But they actually date way back to the early day's of trick skiing, when a guy buy the name of Ricky McCormick would try do a flip off of the boats rollers as the boat turned around at the end of the lake. This is where the first flip or invert was invented off of a wake.
They have now evolved into a wall of water that is capable of launching the rider up to 20 feet in the air. But, as most aspects of water sports behind a boat, it is a true team effort. In this article we will try to break it down in two parts. Hopefully after reading this there will be a lot less screaming on the lake that should make those old fogies at the end of your lake stop bitching about you screaming at your driver or rider.
First lets get into the driver seat. The most important part for the driver is keeping a straight path. Always be conscious of where your rollers are going. While your pulling your rider try to pick 2 spots on your lake that your going to drive in between. This will become the 'run' that your rider is riding in. Usually you want your run long enough so that the rider can comfortably fit a minimum of 6 tricks in before the boat turns. The longer, the better. It just depends on how the wind is that day and how many fishermen your pissing off. Your goal as a driver is to never let your own boat wakes enter or travel down the riders 'run'. At the end of your run, since you have to turn anyway, you might as well build your rider a double up.
Before we get to far ahead, let's define double up; A Double up is when the boat makes an arcing turn of approximately 270 degrees. And crosses his old wakes. As the boat does so the rider has the opportunity to ride between the old wakes and the current wake, which makes a larger apex wake which will offer a steeper larger ramp than an ordinary wake.
Now the trick as the driver is to not send a wall of wake down the run when building the double up. So here's how that's done. First of all determine which way your rider wants the double up. There are signs we all use as pro's that you might as well adopt now. It will save a lot of explaining the next time your riding with one of us. Either before your rider leaves the dock you can ask which way your rider wants his double up's. Or the rider can use a hand signal (good place for an illustration)
If your rider is just starting out with double up's then you want to build one for his heal side edge. These are an easier one to hit for a beginner. If they are left foot forward then it wants to be a right hand double up, and vise versa for goofy foot.
Now the trick to keeping your riders run clean and without rollers, is to leave yourself enough room at the end so that you can veer off your path at about 45 degrees. You then hold this line for a good 100 feet, the longer this line is the easier to set up the double up. After you've set your wall of rollers then drive a large 270-degree arc. You want to make sure you finish your arc early so that you can drive a straight line again through your wall of water.
You'll notice now that the nose of the boat is now pointing back down your run. For more advanced riders you want to try to go through your rollers or wall of water at about 90 degrees, this is called a closed double up. For the first timers or those less advanced it's easier to hit it when the boat drives through at more of a 45 degree angle, this is called an open double up. Again just try not to put rollers down the riders run, And make sure the boat is set at the speed the rider desires well before you drive through the Double up.
Ok, now for the rider. The main thing to remember in the double up is it is wider than the normal wake and a lot steeper. Lets start off with a first timer. As the boat turns you want to stay on the inside of the turn. As the boat starts to straighten out, you want to stay fairly close to the wake, the farther you go out the more precise your approach needs to be. The best thing to do is have your driver just drive the pattern a couple of times, and just hang outside the wake and look at the double up. Once you've done this then you'll know what I'm about to say. Otherwise it'll be all Greek. You'll notice that there are 4 rollers. One small one two big ones and one more small one. The best one to hit is the first big one. You want to start just about 5 foot from the wake. As soon as you go over the first small roller turn the tip of your board into the Double up. As you turn you'll travel toward the wake in the swell of the first and second roller. Because the wake is now twice as steep you'll want to put a little more weight on your back foot. If you don't this wall of water will swallow you and pitch you onto your face. Instead of thinking about cutting at the wake, think more of just pointing at it and letting it come to you. It's also important that your hips are locked and solid going through the Double up. If they're not, it will fold you in half. Once you can successfully get lift from 5 feet out, then start moving your approach out wider. Eventually you'll be able to clear both wakes. It's also best to have your driver start at a 45 degree open style Double up, as you get more comfortable with it and you feel like you can cut harder at it, then you can have your driver start closing it up a little bit.
If this doesn't seem to work, you have 2 options. Either take up Lawn Darts or come train with Dave at Briscoes Ride Center. www.thewakeboardcoach.com
Blind 180
The blind 180 is the stepping stone link to every rotational trick that you'll ever encounter. The most difficult part of any spin is the time that your blind to the boat and making the handle pass behind your back. Blind 180's will teach you the proper head & eye placement and help with handle control necessary to achieve any rotational trick your heart desires.
The easiest way to learn these is through many steps that will help you avoid that nasty back smacking, healside edge crash. Before trying this you should at least have your bunny hop 180's and wake-to-wake 180's dialed in.
OK, the easiest and least painful way to start is without the rope. Have your driver put the boat into a whip, edge out on the whip and generate is much speed is you can. Let go the rope, jump up and try to rotate the board blind. If you're left foot forward than you want to cut to your left and your rotation will be to the right. The biggest trick is making sure that your head is the last thing to rotate. Make sure you get in the air with your eyes focused on something in the same direction the boat is going, start the rotation with your hips as you land your eyes should be exactly 180 degrees of the direction that you were going. This method will help you learn how to rotate without fighting the pull the rope. It is crucial however, that your eyes focus on something when you land 180 degrees from where you're going. One way that you can ensure this is to look over your shoulder when you're still riding behind the boat and find an object, tree, house, or whatever is behind you. Then when you let go of the rope and go for the blind 180,you'll have an object to look for. Once you get this down regular then go ahead and try switch. When you can consistently land and sink slowly in control, then you're ready to start adding the rope.
There are just a few things that you may have to troubleshoot. If you're over rotating when you land that's because your eyes are looking back toward the boat. If your board is sticking to the water and you're taking a back smacker, it's because you're turning your head before you get off the water.
Your driver can be a huge factor when you try it with a rope for the first time. You want to have your driver put you in the same whip that they did when you were letting go of the rope. At the peak of your whip have your driver turn the boat back toward you so that it's traveling in the same direction you are, and put the boat in neutral. This should cause your rope to go slack, but you'll still have enough speed to stay on top of the water. Jump up and do your blind 180 the same way you did without the rope, but this time as you land put the handle directly on your butt cheek. There are two things that make you stick to the water blind. This works on every trick you'll ever land blind. One is to keep your eyes locked on something behind you, which you already learned without the handle. Two is to push your butt back toward the handle just as you land. Your eyes will help to keep your board stuck to the water and pushing your butt will keep you from getting pulled over backwards. Again once you can do this regular learning it switch immediately.
Once you can consistently do this on each side, you can have your driver get rid of some of the whip, until ultimately the boat remains in a straight line and you create your own speed. Troubleshooting on this should be exactly the same as the troubleshooting I gave you when you did this without the rope. One thing I would add, if you're getting yanked out the back consistently it's because you're not pushing your butt toward the handle.
Once you get this down with the boat going in a straight line, then we can start adding a wake. To start, let's slow the boat down to about 16 or 18 miles per hour. You want to start inside the wake, cut from inside to outside wake wait until your completely peaked out, and then rotate your blind 180. It's really important now that you keep control of the handle because there's a lot stronger pull directly behind the boat than there is out wide. It's also extremely important, that you don't rotate on the way up. As long as you're going up the rope is tight, if you try to rotate with a tight line it'll pull you onto your back. Make sure again that you're really using your eyes, and they're locked in on an object as you impact the water. Also make sure as soon as you impact that you're pushing your backside toward the handle. As soon as you learn this regular learn it switch immediately. On average to get this far it should take you anywhere from two days of solid riding to a week.
After you've accomplished a single wake blind 180, then it's time to go wake to wake. You may want to shorten your line to start. This will make the wakes closer together, which means you won't have to cut so hard to clear them. The biggest trick wake to wake is patience, because you're cutting harder to clear the wake your increasing the tension on the line. To be able to rotate blind you have to wait for the tension to be gone. Remember never rotate, on the way up only rotate on the way down. This is by far the hardest thing to grasp when trying these wake to wake. Remember the harder you cut the tighter the line is, and the tighter the line is the harder it is to rotate. Start off by just doing some wake-to-wake jumps. You want just enough speed to land on the down slope of the second wake. When just doing jumps you should be able to feel when the peak of your jump is and be able to feel when you start coming down, this will be the point that you initiate the blind 180. The first time you try the wake-to-wake blind 180 you'll find that it's difficult to hang onto the line. This comes solely from turning too soon. If you find your having a hard time sticking to the water, then your eyes probably aren't locked on an object. When you can consistently do this at this line length, then try going back to your normal length. And as soon as you get this regular, learn it switch!!
After you get this down, try a toe side 360 and a switch toe side 360. You'll notice that the first 180 of this is natural the second 180 is the blind 180 you just learned. This will open many doors in the world of spinning you've got the hardest part down. But, if you just can't get it, you can always come to Briscoe's Ride Center!
Good luck,
Dave Briscoe
Tantrum and Backroll
The Trick to the tantrum is a hard heelside edge with most of your weight on your front foot. At the top of the wake let go with your back hand, and point your lead hand to the boat. This will make your shoulders square off to the boat. Keep your back as tall as possible. Patience is the key at this point. If you throw the trick before you leave the wake it will rob all of your pop. After you feel the kick of the wake you then look straight back and keep looking until you see the water. If your head twists and you look over your shoulder this will make you twist.
On the Back roll you want to think of this trick as a cartwheel. Edge in with a tall back and most of the weight on your front foot. At the top of the wake transfer all of your weight to your back foot and lock your back leg. As you do this, the board will take the shape of the wake. As the board starts to roll you want to counter this by putting your back ear to your back shoulder. The key is to not turn your head when you do this. Keep your nose to the boat and simply snap your ear to your shoulder. If your left foot forward it will be your right ear to right shoulder.
When you know you’re upside down, open your eyes and look over your lead shoulder (which ever foot is forward is your lead side) and spot the water before you impact it. When you can start seeing something before you land instead of when you land, your body will start reacting to a landing. Keep 2 hands on the whole time for this trick.
I hope this helps. Try a couple and send me back an email on what's happening, and I'll try too talking you through it.
Good luck,
Dave
Whirly Bird
The Whirlybird is a great way to enter the world of Mobe’s. First of all what is a mobe? Mobe is short for Mobius. Meaning two lines that inter twine but never connect. The name was first introduced to our world through Freestyle Jumping. Basically in Wakeboarding we call a Mobe anything that has an invert combined with a 360. So enough of the history lesson lets get to the trick. A Whirly is a Tantrum with an over head blind 360. I would recommend learning at least 4 solid inverts before trying this. Here are a few that will compliment this trick, first, of course, A tantrum. Also a Toeside backroll will help with a strong base for the Whirly. Any other inverts will help with air sense, but try to stay balanced. When you learn something heal side, balance it off be learning something Toeside. Another thing that will help the overhead rotation is, take off your fins and slow the boat down to about fifteen mph. Learn some over head blind 360’s on the surface to get the feel of the rope over your head and pulling you around to a 360.
The cut for this trick will be a little different than other inverts. You can’t have a lot of tension in the line at take off or you’ll never get the handle over your head, but you need enough momentum to still clear the second wake. So try this, Go out wider on your cut than normal cut hard at the beginning and surf the wake a little earlier for your Tantrum, The idea is to learn to take your Tantrum’s up higher with less lateral movement. You should feel no tension on the line when you’re in the air, and land right on the downslope of the second wake. When you can do this on your Tantrum’s then your ready for the Whirly.
The most important thing to remember is the rope has to initiate the spin and not your head. If your head turns before the rope is over your head you will turn away from the pull of the boat and make tension in the line which won’t allow you to get the handle all the way in and over your head.
For the Whirly take the same hard edge and surf early, at the top of the wake pull both hands toward your rear shoulder, keeping your head neutral and square to your shoulders. Just as your leaving the top of the wake push your lead hand, (left for left foot forward & vice versa) straight up and over your back shoulder (right shoulder for left foot forward) the movement of your hand will initiate the rotation, once you leave the wake and you have the handle over your back shoulder, then look over your back shoulder for the second wake. This subtle movement of your head will get your body spinning. You still want to think mostly Tantrum. As long as the handle and head are in the right place the spin will just happen, but the Tantrum won’t. Any mobe that you do the base flip of it has to be thrown first. As you come around, spot your landing early and push the handle back down by your hips for your landing. If the handle stay’s high you will end up falling away from the boat on your landing. The key to this is getting that handle in a position that it will work for you and pull you around in the 360 portion of the trick.
If you tie a rope up to a tree on land you’ll see what I mean. When you pull the handle in and up over your head with tension on it, you’ll feel a spot that the handle wants to easily come back down as you rotate. Now imagine splitting your body into two sections. If you rotate with the handle over your head but on the boat side of your nose it will want to pull your handle down behind your back. But if you rotate and the handle stays on the away side of your nose then it will want to spin you around 360 degrees and back to where the pull is coming from.
Here are some trouble shooting problems.
1. Problem; I’m getting up side down and the handle is ripping out of my hands. Solution; There are only one of two things that will cause this. Either your cutting to hard into the wake and your creating more than necessary tension in the rope, or your turning away from the pull to early and that is making the line too tight. Remember the harder you cut the tighter the line is.
2. Problem; I’m starting the spin but only rotating to a Tantrum to Blind and the handle is getting pulled behind my back. Solution; This is the most common problem in a Whirly. This happens from turning your head before you get the handle into that sweet spot that will pull you back forward. Remember the handle has to get to the away side of your face before you can turn your head, if your right foot forward this means your left biceps should be in front of your right eye. And vice versa for goofy riders. Once your arm and handle reaches that spot then turn your head but not before.
3. Problem; I’m not clearing the wake’s and I’m casing the second wake and destroying my ankle’s. Solution; This usually happens when you fix the last one I mentioned because you end up backing of so much, or overcorrecting that you through the trick early or surf the wake too much and don’t have the momentum to carry you across both wakes. Try getting wider on your initial approach and cutting harder at the beginning. Surf a little harder when you get to the base of the wake to get rid of the unwanted tension, and let the momentum you created coming into the wake carry you across. If this still doesn’t solve it try shortening your rope one loop until you’re landing it, then let it back out once you can do 3 in a row.
4. Problem; I’m getting all the way around and landing on my board but can’t stop spinning, I’m going through the trick and landing on my back. Solution; This usually happens when the line is too tight at the end of the trick, It pulls your arm away from your body at the end and gets you stretched out which makes it hard to stop rotating. Crazy as it seems this is from starting the rotation too late. If you leave the wake first with hard surf that’s when the line is the least resistant against your arm. If you wait too long to get the handle over your head it will become tight faster and when your three quarters of the way through the trick the boat will start pulling you again and unwind you too quick, thus causing you to spin through. Make sure that you’re already moving the handle in with both hands while your still on the wake. Then punch it hard across your rear shoulder and straighten your arm if your arm goes straight you will rotate cleaner, where as if it is bent it will travel too much like a cowboy throwing a lasso.
The driver can help with this trick as well by driving a slight arc the same direction that the rider is cutting into the wake. This will help the line go dead enough so that the rider can get the feel of getting his handle over his head.
And I’d like to thank my driver who helped out with this shoot up in Grand Rapids, MI. Louie Cares the flying Greek, Nora, Rick & Big Daddy. Thanks for the fun.
As always learn your basics first. Before attempting this you should have all 4 180’s wake to wake, that’s Heelside 180, Toeside 180, Heelside Halfcab & Toeside Halfcab. Also a few base inverts Rolls, Front Rolls, Scarecrow, Tantrum, Roll 2 Rev. and some basic spinning sense, Grab 180’s and 360’s. Do you have to have all this before you’ll make a whirlybird?
No, but it will take some of the pain out of learning it. And trust me when you’re not ready to try a trick the crashes get pretty brutal.
Good luck and if your having any problems send me an email.
Good luck and enjoy your first Mobe.
Inside out 180's
After you get your Surface 180’s down learn to ride switch. Take one whole 30-minute set and just ride switch. Learn to cross the wakes both ways and small jumps. It’s going to feel like your starting all over again and you’re going to hate it. But trust me on this one; You’ll be glad you did to avoid catching edges later because you weren’t comfortable switch.
Once you’ve gained some control switch and you can do basic wake jumps both ways lets do what I call the necessary 4.
These 4 180’s are the base of every take off and landing you will ever do or dream of doing on a board.
Make sure you have these base 180’s down from outside the wake to inside first. The 4 are:
- Toeside 180
- Switch Toeside 180 or Toeside Half Cab
- Heelside 180
- Switch Heelside 180 or Half Cab
I usually have people try Inside to out before they try wake to wake to get used to the landing, minimizing the chance of bad falls.
When your attempting these from inside to out, think in 45 degrees lines.
What I mean by this is pick 2 spots that are 45 degrees from the boats path. This is your line of travel. When your edging to the wake your lead hipbone should be pointing directly down this line. You want to stay in this position until you come off the wake and peak out.
Here’s the key;
Don’t turn on the way up. As long as you’re going up you have maximum tension on the line. If you try and rotate with all this tension the line will get pulled away from you. If you wait until you’re on the way down then the line will be slack and you can rotate your 180 easily. Now to successfully land this, simply replace the lead hip with the other hip. Your board will always follow your hips. But unfortunately your hips don’t always follow your board.
On your toeside and switch toeside you can keep both hands on the whole time. On the Heel side and switch Heel side you should let go with the trailing hand on landing. So if your landing right foot forward let go with your left hand.
If you take your other hand and rotate it downward. (Thumb Down) and push the handle toward your back pocket. This will help you keep your hip on that 45-degree line.
Once you get these down. Try them wake-to-wake. Yes, I mean all 4!!
If you take the time and learn this stuff you’ll learn all those cool inverts you want a lot easier. Believe me I’ve been through all the pain since 92 so you don’t have to.
Hesitation Leads to Pain,
Dave Briscoe
www.thewakeboardcoach.com
